Visiting Morocco During Ramadan

“A thousand welcomes!” This is how a thousand out of 1,001 Moroccans would respond if you asked, “Should I visit Morocco during the month of Ramadan?” The truth is, locals exude hospitality. Yes, some are driven to rudeness and most are tempted to dishonesty when they see you as just a source for their livelihood, but their social code deems that kind of reaction to be hashuma (shameful).

Keep in mind ⚠️

A couple of Moroccans that I talked to in preparation for writing this blog were not connected with tourism and were in tune with people. They said things like, “They won’t be able to eat all day,” or “All the restaurants and cafés will be closed.”

No Smoking

From dawn to dusk

No Eating

During daylights hours

No Drinking

All day long

Although this is true for most establishments in town, there will still be some restaurants open during the day in tourist zones. For example, hotels and riads will still serve meals during the day, as well as foreign-owned restaurants. If you are a foreigner, you will be served politely and treated with respect while eating inside. It would not be good form to eat, drink, or smoke in public and doing so may arouse the ire of some. 

Most businesses and shops begin opening around 11:00 am. Even hanuts, which are little neighborhood convenience shops, will open later in the morning. The only exception would be banks and other foreign-owned businesses. 

(Example: Ramadan hours, Monday 12:15 pm – 2:30 pm; Tuesday through Friday 9:15 am – 2:30 pm; Saturday 10:15 am – 12:00 noon)

Daily life during Ramadan

Stands selling sweets pop up all over town a couple of weeks before Ramadan. Chabekia (shǝ-BEH-kee-uh), sillu (SIL-loo), and briwats (BREE-wot) are some of the local favorites, but a huge variety of homemade goods are sold every year.

Stores put on their blowout sales and every home is intent on making purchases to prepare special food in advance for the month of Ramadan. Morocco decides independently from other countries what day their fast will begin, depending on the appearance of the sliver of the moon that marks the beginning of the month. The day after this sighting is officially the beginning of the fast.

A typical schedule

A canon is fired in the medina to mark the time of the the breaking of their fast for the day. The boom can be heard throughout the whole town. At that time those observing the fast are allowed to eat and drink. Silence reigns in the empty streets for about an hour afterwards, during which time a tourist would be safest to stay indoors. 

The Moroccan Arabic word ftour (f-TOOR) is the equivalent of the English word “breakfast” (breaking the fast). Typically, in Morocco, they begin by drinking some water and then eating dates and milk. Once that has had time to settle, they go for something a little more substantial – harira (Moroccan soup that I’ve been told has Berber origins), breads, and sweets.

This is leisure time when one relaxes until the big meal of the night. Many families choose to do things together. They take a walk down the boulevard, go shopping, go to the local park, or sit around at home. Some men will head straight to the café to slowly sip on an espresso and watch a football match.

This is the time of the major meal of the night. While the ftour consists of various breads, sweets, juices, soup, and delicacies, the big meal is a serious dish. It is usually some sort of tagine with beef or chicken that will stay with them for the long haul. After this meal the family usually stays inside either to watch tv, play cards, or sleep until next meal.

About this time a flute player or a drummer will parade up and down the streets outside the homes playing their instrument to awaken and alert the population to eat one last time before sunrise. This is usually a much lighter meal, usually traditional Moroccan breakfast fare. Getting a little shuteye would obviously then be high priority before beginning the day’s labors.

School and foreign businesses typically begin to open.

Local businesses begin to open. The long wait begins for sunset and the ftour.

A personal experience

During one Ramadan we spent the night with Moroccan friends and experienced amazing hospitality, eating three times and taking a walk to the park to ride bumper cars in the middle of the night.

It would not be out of the ordinary for someone to invite you to their ftour. If you are invited and decide to go, just be observant, following their cues and customs for when to begin eating, table etiquette, etc., and enjoy getting to know them. Bring with you a token gift of sweets (chabekia) or a couple kilos of fruit or anything else that you think would be tasty. Handmade or fresh is always better received than packaged or foreign. 

The end of Ramadan

Near the end of Ramadan some families will dress up their children, mainly little girls, in costumes similar to those worn for a Moroccan wedding and take them through the neighborhood. Local businesses set up a festival atmosphere where kids have the experience of riding on a mario like a young bride and have their picture taken or even a professional video made of the occasion.

 

After their month of fasting is complete, they spend about three days of eating and visiting family and friends. Gifts are given back and forth and schedules begin to get back to normal.

Moroccan feedback

(I asked some locals a couple of questions to hear their opinions.)
What are some tips to tourists when they visit during Ramadan?

Be respectful to those who are fasting. Don’t smoke out in public. There are people who are refraining from smoking during the daylight hours who would get very agitated to smell smoke during the daytime. Don’t eat or drink in public for the same reasons. Ladies should wear modest clothing. Of course, you have the right to do all of these things in public. There are no Ramadan police who will stop you, but it’s “hashuma.”

How would you describe your fast of Ramadan to tourists?

Three words that describe this month are holiness, forgiveness, and mercy. This is not just a time of fasting from food and drink. It is the time for fasting from lusts. Don’t look, don’t touch. One person explained that they believe it is the month when Mohammed received the Quran, and in it they are told to observe the fast.

Final tips

The bottom line

If this time of year is your best option…

A thousand welcomes!